The book Wild Treasures: Reflections on Natural World Heritage Sites in Asia was released in New Delhi on 7 March 2022. The book includes two chapters on GHNP, “GHNP: The Wilds and Its People” by Sanjeeva Pandey and “Reflections on the Great Himalayan National Park” by Payson R Stevens. The anthology is edited by Prerna Singh Bindra, Sonali Ghosh, and Anuranjan Roy.
Sanjeeva Pandey says, “Released by the British High Commission, Supriya Chawla, Chevening, Prerna Bindra and all the other super women and to have acknowledged and felicitated our labour of love! Indeed an honour to have it released by Jan Thompson, Acting British High Commissioner to India and Professor Gagandeep Kang among others. Wild Treasures: Reflections on Natural World Heritage Sites in Asia is now available on Amazon. It is a selection of 45 carefully curated articles that take the reader on a journey across Asia’s most beautiful wildernesses and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The sites, to name a few, include Nanda Devi, Valley of Flowers, Kaziranga, Sundarbans, the Great Himalayan National Park, Bharatpur and the Western Ghats in India. It also covers the hottest place on planet earth which is the Lut Desert in Iran, the snowy realms of the Mount Everest in a quest to find the snow leopard, and the world’s largest tiger reserve—Hukawng Valley in Myanmar.”
FGHNP Co-Founder and Friend Sanjeeva Pandey discusses the Vishv Dharohar Utsav held in June 2022 to celebrate the Eighth Anniversary of the Great Himalayan National Park’s WHS Inscription. He also considers current issues plaguing the region and considers possible ways to resolve them.
To commemorate GHNP’s WHS inscription, Vishv Dharohar Utsav was celebrated on 25-26 June, 2022 at the Sai Ropa complex, GHNP. The two-day celebration brought together wildlife academics, practitioners, WL staff and communities. There were panel discussions, expert lectures, an exhibition, wildlife treks, community experience sharing sessions, and cultural programs befitting the WHS Inscription.
R to L: Nishant (Dy Director, GHNP), Anish Sharma (DFO Publicity), Sanjeeva Pandey (ex Director, GHNP) and Mira Sharma (present Director, GHNP) at Vishv Dharohar Utsav on 25 June 2022
Presentations at the Utsav were of good quality and well prepared. Panel discussions were quite lively and full of substance. Dr. Goraya’s trek experiences and his continuing passion for botany were very encouraging for the Forest staff. Mr. Vinay Tandon’s wit and incisive interventions were apparent in his presentation on Institutions for Conservation. This made the Utsav more lively.
Mira Sharma (Director, GHNP) and Rajiv (Pr CCF cum CWLW) at a kiosk of local produce from GHNP ecozone. The Vishv Dharohar Utsav included an exhibition of the things made by the local women and Saving Groups in the GHNP ecozone.Local dham at the Vishv Dharohar Utsav 2022Lighting of the lamp at the Vishv Dharohar Utsav, Sai Ropa on 25 June 2022 Front Row R to L: Mira Sharma (CCF and Director, GHNP), Sanjeeva Pandey (ex Director, GHNP), Dr G. S. Goraya (Retd HoFF, HP), Vinay Tandon (Retd HoFF, HP), Rajiv (PrCCF and Chief WL Warden, HP), Ajay Srivastav (HoFF, HP) Back Row R to L: Nishant (Dy Director) and Anil Thakur (APCCF, WL)
Meeting old, retired colleagues Roshan (Dy Ranger), Bhupender (Ranger), Narottam (Dy Ranger) brought with it happiness and great vibes. Karam Chand (Dy Ranger at Shamshi) and Prithvi Singh (driver) were full of warmth and freshness.
At the Utsav, G. S. Goraya and I found the opportunity to appreciate the contributions from Payson Stevens since 2000. Payson has been an advisor to the Park and Ecozone NGO and trekked more than 1500 km in the Park. Starting with making the Park’s website together with the Park Director, he explored the delicate balance between the dependencies of the local people on the natural resources and the need to conserve the valuable resource base and the Park’s immense biodiversity. He is a major supporter of the Park, helped in drafting the World Heritage Site application for GHNP, and co-founded FGHNP.
R to L: Stephan Marchal (Managing Director, Himalayan Ecotourism), Lady Forest Guard, Anil Bharadwaj (Retd Forest Officer from Kerala Forest Deptt), Vinay Tandon (Retd HoFF, HP), Upasana Patiyal (CCF, WL at Dharamshala), Sushil Kapta (CCF, HP)
The Utsav provided a great opportunity to reflect on various developments taking place in the Ecozone of the Park:
There is no doubt that the area is changing very rapidly. A number of homestays and hotels have sprung up. Pressure on the Park Ecozone from development can only increase. At the same time, many outsiders are getting drawn to the Ecozone by economic opportunities, especially in the hospitality sector. With more local young people going away to college and getting qualifications that equip them to work in hotels and restaurants it could be that the whole idea of compensatory income generation is going to be overtaken by local economic development.
Although there are still some remote villages like Shakti, Marore and Lapah leading very traditional existences, there is this impression that even Shangarh could now be considered part of mainstream Indian life—no longer “the end of the habitable world.” Both Tirthan and Sainj Valleys have a well-developed road network. Most of the locals look prosperous and westernised: school teachers, engineers, doctors, carrying cameras and cellphones.
All the income-generating activities that are highlighted at the FGHNP website are useful initiatives that help the local economy. However, despite the increasing prosperity in the area, some aspects of resource extraction from the Park, especially gucchi and medicinal plants, remain too lucrative to be dropped from the local economy. In any case, it cannot be believed that anyone gave up gucchi collecting because they could make more money vermicomposting. The answer to protecting the Park from plant collectors is enforcement.
Overall, the biggest threat to biodiversity in the Park is and always has been domestic grazing. Around Shakti and Maror, it is clear that such grazing continues within the Park. Jiwanal has cases of unauthorized sheep grazing. There are reports of horses being taken to Dhel for grazing in summer. On the other hand, the kind of sheep and cattle being pastured are not likely to yield a huge profit—this is one aspect of the local economy that could probably be reduced without undue hardship for anyone. Milk production could be maintained via stall-feeding, which must happen in winter in any case. Thinking about ecological restoration, what would be most useful would be a study of current grazing regimes within the Park and of ways to divert the animals elsewhere.
As time passes, GHNP is likely to become more and more an island of natural ecosystems within a matrix of different human land use: the hydro developments have definitely been responsible for opening up the valleys (many new roads have been constructed) much more quickly than might have happened otherwise. That means that GHNP will continue to be a very important element in the protection of the west Himalayan biodiversity. To what extent ecodevelopment, as detailed on the FGHNP website, will continue to be important, one cannot be sure.
Inaugural prayer by local students at the Vishv Dharohar Utsav, Sai Ropa on 25 June 2022. The Great Himalayan National Park was inscribed as a World Heritage Site (Vishv Dharohar) on 25 June 2014 at the meeting of World Heritage Committee at Doha, State of Qatar.
FGHNP will continue to work for the Park’s biodiversity conservation by drawing support from donors who appreciate their experience in GHNP. Our website www.greathimalayannationalpark.com will act as an active platform to discuss conservation ideas and maintain a repository of knowledge.
FGHNP’s founders and prominent members, Sanjeeva Pandey and Payson Stevens, celebrated Sanjeeva Pandey’s retirement from Forest Service with a celebration trek at the Great Himalayan National Park in 2018.
Sanjeeva Pandey writes about this memorable and exhilarating trek:
“Itali-TitliTiyaridali; Yannebhibhali, syanebhibhali” is a local saying in the undeveloped and intensely wild area that I trekked with my friend Payson Stevens from 20-28 September 2018. The conversational meaning of this saying is that there are flowers of Tiyari (a local plant) in an area called Itali-Titli, which are very pleasing to make a very tough trek easy for the young as well as the old.
Payson had been the guiding spirit behind this trek to celebrate my retirement from the Forest Service. We have worked together for the biodiversity conservation of the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP)—the site of our present trek—since 2000 when Payson came to my office (Director of the Park) to contribute to nature conservation in his wife Kamla’s country (she is from Chandigarh, living in the USA for many years with many excellent publications to her credit). The trek was also to celebrate our 18 years of friendship, which has resulted in the successful inscription of the GHNP as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014. Payson turned 73 in April 2018 and me 60 in the same month of 2018. Both of us have been preparing for this trek for more than two months. I was climbing from my residence in Khalini (a low-lying area in Shimla) to the Ridge (about 1500 feet climb). Payson was building his stamina by doing similar climbs around Ghiyaghi village near Banjar (Kullu district) where he has constructed a lovely house “BehtaPani” in 2003 (though Payson and Kamla live in California, USA, they spend May to October each year in this Indian home).
Payson negotiating a difficult patch of trek to Supakhani jogni
Our first two days of trek went very well with lots of sunshine and the cool breeze of high altitude forests of fir-spruce and oaks. Before embarking on this trek, we had studied satellite maps for the weather conditions. Accordingly, a thunderstorm was expected on 23 September which came a day early on 22 September when we were to negotiate the wildest and most strenuous part of the trek. In the words of Payson, we were on a sheep trail “with incredible major storms blasting and sublime beauty in between.”
Sanjeeva en route to Supakhani jogni
The whole experience gives me goosebumps as I think about the long march on 22 September (more than eight hours through the incessant rains and chilling storm) among the jumbled and disarrayed mountains between Marani and Dhel. Though I have crossed from Tirthan to Sainj several times, we were taking this route (through the Marani meadow) for the first time. This very demanding/testing but rewarding trek brought with it the excitement of being out in the cold of rains and storm. Most of the trek is above the tree line. The yellowing of ferns and plants of various colours appearing from crevices and rock faces (Berginia, Androsace or rock jasmine, Paraquilegia) present a very fine natural mosaic. The stunted and gnarled rhododendrons of high altitude, junipers and roses intermix with a numerous variety of herbs and shrubs. In times of the fury of nature, this vegetation and scenery en route (nicely depicted by the Itali-Titli local saying) was a great companion to keep our spirits high.
Trekking for all age groups: Sainj Valley near Shagwar villageRains in Sainj Valley
Our arrival at Supakhani (a local deity, Kaali avatar) on the edge of the Dhel meadow (3737 m alt) was some solace. At least, the path from here to Dhel Patrolling Hut (about four km) did not require us to jump from rock to rock (as we had been doing through the day), but was a decent Gaddi (shepherd) trail. The rains were not letting up. The firewood being wet did bring some comfort but with lots of choking smoke in the Patrolling Hut. Nine porters, Payson and I were accommodated in two tents (quite comfortable even during the rains) and the Hut. We were here for three days and four nights. After about 36 hours of continuous rain (evenings of 22 to 23 September), the sun god put up a gracious appearance on 24 September noon. Quickly, our porters arranged for a very luxurious shaving and bath. As we progressed from Dhel Hut to DhelJogani (a local deity), the inevitable rainbow appeared in a nearby V-shaped valley with a magical charm and beauty; indeed, nature has her own ways of testing and rewarding. We rejoiced to be there.
Payson and Sanjeeva at Dhel meadow
September 25 was a sunny day, so verdant and refreshing all around, awash with various shades of greens, browns and reds. The fresh snowfall on the surrounding mountain peaks provided a silvery white backdrop. The evening was graced by nature’s presentation of a dazzling moon (full moon or Purnima) at about 8 PM, a sight without an equal that will stay with me forever. The next morning was without a speck in the sky. The panorama of layers of mountains visible from the ridge, about 50 meters up Dhel Patrolling Hut, was breathtaking. Though I have seen it many times, the freshness after rains and all that we had gone through was special, exceptional and overwhelming. Jai Ho GHNP!
Fresh snow fall on the peaks across Dhel meadowPanoramic view of Himalayas from Dhel ridgePayson and Sanjeeva on the Dhel ridge at 3737 m altitude
On 26 September, we shifted our camp to BharadNala, a beautiful site, quite popular among the shepherds (bharad is the local name for sheep). A stream flows through the site with gurgling and happy sounds and made us feel cheerful. The six km walk from Dhel to Bharad was relaxing and alleviating. The next day we trekked to Shakti village to be with the new Park management. We shared our experiences with the Director of GHNP Mr Ajit Thakur and DFO Abhilasha. Mr Thakur promptly informed the local newspapers about our well-being (we learnt that the rains and the storm had caused havoc in Kullu and Manali). September 28 was a trek up to the road-head of Niharni. The afternoon trek was again through the rains, a reminder of the earlier days of this nine-day adventure.
Payson and Sanjeeva with the trekking party near Bherar meadow below Dhel: Deputy Ranger, Narottam joined the trek towards Shakti side
Thanks a lot to my friend, philosopher and guide Payson for his cheery, jovial and good-natured comments. His suggestion for my retirement celebrations proved to be exciting, thrilling and exhilarating. I will always cherish the date of my retirement which was 30 April 2018, the Buddha Purnima, a date which denotes Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, first sermon, and death (mahaparinirvana). Feeling blessed to retire from my job and proceed into the next phase of life on a date so significant in the life of my Guruji, the Buddha. Mangal Ho.
FGHNP Co-founder and Friend Payson R Stevens recollects his experience of storms and splendour when he undertook a trek with FGHNP Co-founder and Friend Sanjeeva Pandey.
My trek in the Great Himalayan National Park/GHNP (September 20-28, 2018) was one of the most challenging Nature experiences of my life, especially at 73. As I emailed my friends:
Just returned from an intense GHNP nine day trek to 14,000 feet with incredible major storms blasting and sublime beauty in between. It was the Tirthan to Sanij trek I did in 2000 with Sanjeeva Pandey (and Arny Lippin). Sanjeeva and I took a new, undeveloped, and as it turns out, dangerous trail from the Tirthan River side to Dhel thatch/meadow, returning via the Sanij River Valley.
It was the most challenging trek of my life…the second day a huge storm hit (that was expected from satellite weather maps but came a day early) and we had to mountain climb one day for eight hours up a 75 degree rock escarpment with some ledges 3 inches wide. Scary stuff, but my training/hiking for two months along with 35 years of trekking/mountain experience, along with steadfast, strong Himat (our main BP man) made it all possible…especially not slipping off into my end 1000+ feet below.
Much gratitude to my aging body for coming through and the joy of moving through constantly changing Himalayan landscapes and vistas. Sanjeeva and I had a ball and deepened our bond. Great retirement celebration for him and for me, perhaps my farewell trek in GHNP…but who knows? I felt incredibly strong, even agile at times, though my balance and knees are limiting forces. What an experience to have at 73+!
I’d do it again just to see rainbow bridges offering magical passage…
GHNP – Dhel Rainbow BridgeSanjeeva and me at Dhel (3737m)Me with a red day pack, ever upward. 500 foot drop, no option!At the high ridges…sublime beauty
The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save the Western Himalayas by Sanjeeva Pandey and Anthony J Gaston was released at the Goa Arts and Literature Centre held between December 6 and 8, 2018, at the International Centre Goa, Dona Paula.
Sanjeeva Pandey says, “Anita Pandey, my wife, released the book on 8 December 2018 at the Goa Art & Literature Festival to a great applause from the audience. Thanks Goa. Thanks Anita.”
Anita Pandey releasing the GHNP book at the Goa Lit Fest
The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save the Western Himalayas by Sanjeeva Pandey and Anthony J Gaston is an ecological and historical journey through the Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area (GHNPCA), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The book discusses the conservation effort in the region to protect the flora and fauna, the local culture, and history. The authors also consider future management of the GHNPCA. The book includes photographs that bring alive the beauty of the Western Himalayas. Be it trekkers, travelers, naturalists, scholars, or resource managers, there is plenty to glean about the GHNPCA in this book.
Goa Lit Fest GHNP book discussion with Stephan Alter (Center) and Ajai Saxena (Left)
Response from wildlife biologist and conservationist Dr. George Schaller:
Yesterday, just in time to celebrate the New Year, I received your wonderful book in the mail. You and Anthony Gaston did a superb job of describing this beautiful park in all its physical, cultural, and ecological complexity. I do hope it gets a wide distribution in the world so that other protected areas are stimulated to emulate you. The many excellent photographs add much to the book, especially since the plants, birds, and others are identified. When I visited you two years ago, I was greatly impressed with your dedicated efforts to include and involve the local communities in the park. Your book so well describes the great persistence you had to have to achieve that, including such critical issues as settlement rights. I also much like reading about the various cultural and religious aspects. Now, at least, it is widely recognized that community involvement is essential for the long-term survival of protected areas, especially since governments may not provide sufficient funding or may even arbitrarily abolish protected areas, as is the case with the current administration in the US. I am also greatly pleased to read that your road-less policy and others remain in place. I did not realize until I read your book that the World Heritage Site designation involved such a huge amount of data and paperwork, and thanks to you this was accomplished and now remains as a symbol of your dedication to this area, one for all beings, including the human ones, to enjoy.
Goa Lit Fest Sanjeeva Pandey interviewed by Ravi Chellum (Left, an ecologist) and Ajai Saxena (Right, a forester)
During my visit, I unfortunately was unable to trek in the park because I was part of an Institute tour which had made no time for that. Some day I look forward to doing do some leisurely hiking through your lovely high- country. This year I unfortunately did not return to India. Until I do, I shall travel in my mind by looking at and reading your book.
My greatest admiration to you and your staff and colleagues for all you have done to create the Great Himalayan National Park. May you all continue to prosper during 2019.
Goa Lit Fest Stephen Alter with the GHNP book at the book stall
BookReviews:
Read the book review of The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save the Western Himalayas in Sanctuary Asia, October 2019:
The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save the Western Himalayas by Sanjeeva Pandey and Anthony J Gaston was introduced at the KSLF (Kushwant Singh Literary Festival) at Kasauli on October 2017.
Sanjeeva Pandey says, “This was a very special moment of my life when a panel of four prominent personalities from the world of nature conservation came together to introduce my book “The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save Western Himalayas” on 12 October 2018 at the seventh chapter of KSLF (Kushwant Singh Literary Festival) at Kasauli. Dr M. K. Ranjit Sinh (a well-known conservationist of Himalayan fauna) moderated the discussions on the book; Mr Bikram Grewal (of Santuary Asia), Mr Vinay Tandon (a distinguished forester) and Dr Naresh Swami (a scholar on Himalayan flowers) contributed to the lively discussions on my presentation of the book. Let me express deep gratitude to all of my panellists, the audience, and the organizers of the KSLF. The audience was very receptive and showed a keen interest in the efforts being made to conserve the biological diversity of India’s seventh UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area.”
The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save the Western Himalayas by Sanjeeva Pandey and Anthony J Gaston is an ecological and historical journey through the Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area (GHNPCA), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The book discusses the conservation effort in the region to protect the flora and fauna, the local culture, and history. The authors also consider future management of the GHNPCA. The book includes photographs that bring alive the beauty of the Western Himalayas. Be it trekkers, travelers, naturalists, scholars, or resource managers, there is plenty to glean about the GHNPCA in this book.
Response from wildlife biologist and conservationist Dr. George Schaller:
Yesterday, just in time to celebrate the New Year, I received your wonderful book in the mail. You and Anthony Gaston did a superb job of describing this beautiful park in all its physical, cultural, and ecological complexity. I do hope it gets a wide distribution in the world so that other protected areas are stimulated to emulate you. The many excellent photographs add much to the book, especially since the plants, birds, and others are identified. When I visited you two years ago, I was greatly impressed with your dedicated efforts to include and involve the local communities in the park. Your book so well describes the great persistence you had to have to achieve that, including such critical issues as settlement rights. I also much like reading about the various cultural and religious aspects. Now, at least, it is widely recognized that community involvement is essential for the long-term survival of protected areas, especially since governments may not provide sufficient funding or may even arbitrarily abolish protected areas, as is the case with the current administration in the US. I am also greatly pleased to read that your road-less policy and others remain in place. I did not realize until I read your book that the World Heritage Site designation involved such a huge amount of data and paperwork, and thanks to you this was accomplished and now remains as a symbol of your dedication to this area, one for all beings, including the human ones, to enjoy.
During my visit, I unfortunately was unable to trek in the park because I was part of an Institute tour which had made no time for that. Some day I look forward to doing do some leisurely hiking through your lovely high- country. This year I unfortunately did not return to India. Until I do, I shall travel in my mind by looking at and reading your book.
My greatest admiration to you and your staff and colleagues for all you have done to create the Great Himalayan National Park. May you all continue to prosper during 2019.
Book Reviews:
Read the book review of The Great Himalayan National Park: The Struggle to Save the Western Himalayas in Sanctuary Asia, October 2019:
Celebrating Natural Heritage in Literature, Art and Culture, a four-day event, was hosted at the Wildlife Institute of India in Dehradun and at Sai Ropa, Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area (GHNPCA). Organized by the UNESCO Category 2 Centre on World Natural Heritage Management and Training for Asia and the Pacific Region in partnership with Himachal Pradesh Forest Department, Great Himalayan National Park, the event was attended by eminent conservationists and scientists.
R to L sitting: AJT Johnsingh; George Schaller; standing: Shriniwas Joshi; Anita S. Pandey; Asad Rahmani; sitting: Sanjeeva Pandey
The event brought together people from different fields unified by their appreciation of nature. This included academics, researchers, journalists, filmmakers, photographers, nature writers, and poets.
A first-of-its-kind event hosted at GHNPCA, the inauguration began with Dr. M. Kirupasankar, DFO, GHNP. Following the felicitation of Dr. George Schaller, Mr. Sanjeeva Pandey, and Mrs. Pandey, GHNP Director Mr. S. S. Kataik took the audience through GHNP’s history and its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014.
Dr George Schaller spent a lifetime studying and working to conserve wildlife and wild habitats around the globe.
Spanning two days, 11–12 Feb 2017, the presentations, workshops, and programmes strove to highlight GHNP’s natural and cultural heritage. It also offered a platform for the local communities to engage with their natural heritage and showcase their traditions and culture.
Day 1
Session 1:
Natural Heritage of the Great Himalayan National Park by Dr. M. Kirupasankar
Splendours of the Great Himalayan National Park, A World Heritage Site by Mr. Sanjeeva Pandey
World Heritage Conservation by Dr. Sonali Ghosh
Session 2:
Nature Conservation in Mountains: Tibetan Plateaus by Dr. George Schaller
Biodiversity Conservation in Human Dominated Landscapes by Dr. AJT Johnsingh
Birds of Himachal by Dr. Asad Rahman
Session 3:
Journalist Workshop: Reporting World Heritage and Mountain Conservation chaired by Mr. Shriniwas Joshi
Session 4:
Panel Discussion: Himachali Writing Roots chaired by Mr. Shriniwas Joshi with panelists Dr. Kulrajeev Pant, Mr. Yadvendra Sharma, Mr. Sureshsen Nishant, Mr Atma Ranjan, Mr. Ajey, Mr. Gurmit Bedi, Mr. Murari Sharma, Mr. Niranjan Dev Sharma, Mr. Keshav, Mr. Srinivas Joshi, Ms Rekha, Mr. Tejram Sharma, and Mr. Prakash Badal
Day 2
Session 5:
Birdwatching and Awareness Session for Students facilitated by Dr. Monica Kaushik and Mr. Vivek Sarkar
Session 6:
Presentation by Dr. George Schaller for the Local Children of GHNP
Session 7:
Jungle Tales: Session for Discussing Stories of the Forest Staff chaired by Mr. Sanjeeva Pandey and facilitated by Dr. Sonali Ghosh
These informative sessions, which raised awareness of the region’s natural heritage, were followed by cultural programmes that highlighted the unique Himachali cuisine, dance, and music. Bird watching sessions too were organized for school children.
